Darkness proved better than dim light. These were country people: darkness put them to sleep. Soon the car was quiet, the rain let up, and the moon was as round and yellow as a wheel of cheddar, and out the window—mine was the only one open—I could see the flat swampy plain and some huts with fires burning outside. The bog-dark land smelled of mud and rain; the passengers slept or stood silently rocking in the aisle. The darkness was pure and serene. I thought: I am alive.
Paul Theroux, The Old Patagonian Express